AUTUMN IN THE GARDEN

When the fruits and berries has already been harvested and the vitamins have been stored for the long period of rest, we can start autumn work in the yard. In order for your garden to be generous next season, this is the right time to carry out maintenance work on fruit trees and berries. Be sure to look at the leaves and remove any that are affected by a disease to limit its spread. Apply mulch around the trees to retain moisture in the soil and insulate the roots from winter cold.

FORMING FRUIT TREES CROWNS

The goal is a symmetrical crown that is open enough to allow sunlight to reach all the fruit evenly. Most often, a cup or pyramid-shaped crown structure is used, depending on the type of tree. Form so that the top of the crown does not form a “hat” or “umbrella”. Consider how fast you want the tree to grow. Currently – in autumn, the branches are cut so that the new growth is slower; in the spring – so that the growth is faster. If the tree is young, focus on forming the crown at an early stage to ensure a strong skeleton and branch structure. Select 3-5 main branches that will form the crown and prune regularly to encourage symmetrical development.

Some tips and tricks that will be useful in the process:

• At a height of 80cm – 100cm, the trunk must be without branches (cherries are an exception).
• It is necessary to eliminate the shoots of the rootstock in time.
• “Water branches” (strong, young shoots) can be left to regenerate the crown.
• Excess branches are broken off in the second half of the summer.
• All rotten fruits (both from the ground and those left on the branches) must be removed.
• Liming of fruit tree trunks is carried out in winter (usually in February) to protect the bark from cracking at greater temperature fluctuations.

IMPORTANT! Young trees planted in autumn are pruned only in spring.

FORMING THE CROWNS OF BERRY BUSHES

In autumn, forming the crown of berry bushes is an important work to ensure healthy growth and a good harvest the following year. Use clean, sharp tools to make precise cuts just above the growing bud, not inward. This will help ensure that the new shoots will grow in the right direction and not overload the center of the bush. Here are some basic steps for creating wreaths for currant, red currant and gooseberry bushes:

1. Cutting out old branches

• Currants and Red currants: Cut off the oldest branches (4+ years) as they will no longer produce a good crop. Leave the youngest, most viable branches, which will produce more berries the following year. Be sure to cut out diseased and damaged branches as well.
• Gooseberries: Remove older branches (8+ years) and branches that are too close to the ground or have grown together in the center of the bush. This will improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal diseases.

2. Removal of excessive branching

• Shrubs tend to grow many young shoots, which often creates density and reduces yield. Cut some of them, especially the branches that grow inside and shade the center of the bush. Leave the strongest and healthiest shoots to improve light access to the entire bush. Leave an average of 10 – 15 producing branches to ensure a generous harvest.

3. Keeping in shape

• Currants and Red currants: Create a bush with an open center, similar to a bowl. This will improve air circulation and allow the light to better reach all the branches.
• Gooseberries: Keep a compact shape, but avoid too dense branching. The branches should be evenly distributed around the center of the bush.

PREVENTION OF PLANT DISEASES

Urea

While the weather is still warm, you can treat fruit trees and berry bushes with urea (500g per 10l of water) – spray both the tree and the entire perimeter under the tree. Fallen leaves often contain pathogens such as apple scab and spores of other fungal infections. Spraying fallen leaves with a solution of urea (5-7% concentration) can reduce the spread of fungi, as urea promotes faster leaf decomposition and reduces the chances of disease spreading. This procedure is carried out before the leaves are removed or incorporated into the soil.

Iron sulfate

In the autumn, after the leaves fall, iron sulfate can be used as a preventive agent to treat plants and soil. This reduces the risk of pests and disease agents overwintering on tree trunks or in the soil. If there are many lichens on the trunks of fruit trees, they can be gently rubbed with a brush and then sprayed with iron sulfate, preparing a solution of 300-500g per 10l of water. Lichens are not harmful in themselves, but they create a favorable environment for diseases and pests to overwinter.

Let the autumn work go smoothly and the next season surprise with a generous harvest!

JARDI